Fancy diamonds that are full of colours

From royal courts to auction rooms

Colored diamonds are not an invention of modern times. They appear in ancient records and have been one of the jewels of royal courts for centuries. Among the most famous is the Hope blue diamond, which has a long history dating back to the 17th century.

For a long time, however, these colourful stones were considered more of a curiosity or a collector's rarity. The turning point came in the 1980s and 1990s, when distinctive coloured diamonds appeared at public auctions and began breaking price records. The Argyle deposits in Australia, which produced extraordinary quantities of pink diamonds from the 1980s onwards, played a crucial role – and greatly enhanced their perception as a luxury investment item.

Since then, interest in fancy diamonds has been growing rapidly. Today, they are a sought-after symbol of exclusivity. Not only because of their beauty, but also because of their extreme rarity and increasing value.

How are fancy diamonds made?

The colour of fancy diamonds is the result of a freak of nature. The colourful stones are created under specific conditions, for example by the addition of different elements or by structural anomalies. These natural imperfections make each stone completely unique.

• Yellow diamonds get their colour from the presence of nitrogen, which absorbs blue light and leaves the stone bright yellow.

• Blue diamonds contain boron, a rare element that causes the absorption of the red and yellow spectrum – resulting in a deep blue hue.

• Pink diamonds are special because their colour is not due to additives, but to the natural  plastic deformation during crystal growth and the displacement of some carbon atoms from their correct positions, caused by exposure to high temperature.

• Red diamonds are extremely rare and their origin is similar to the pink diamonds type, but with a more intense effect.

• Green diamonds usually have a subtle hue with lower saturation, often distorted by grey or brown tones. Their colour is due to natural radiation. Therefore, cutters deliberately maintain a thin layer of colour on the surface to give the diamond a richer appearance.

• The colour of orange diamonds is caused by the presence of nitrogen. The result is a rich, fiery color that is prized much like pink.

• Brown diamonds (often referred to as champagne or cognac) are formed by the plastic deformation and the presence of trace elements of nitrogen. They were one of the first fancy diamonds to appear in jewellery, but over time they came to be used only in industry. They were overlooked for a long time, but are now popular again.

• Grey and black diamonds contain admixtures of graphite or hematite, which cause a dark, opaque colour. Black diamonds look mysterious and luxurious. They are often used in unusual jewellery and often have their own specific name, such as fancy black diamonds.

Natural fancy diamonds as a rarity

Demand for coloured diamonds has increased, and also the price. However, these gems are extremely rare, accounting for less than 0.01% of all diamond production. Their exceptional appearance and limited occurrence makes them a real collector's item and investment piece. Therefore, it is probably not surprising that pure natural fancy diamonds are rarely found in ordinary jewellery.

Available natural fancy diamonds with treatments

Natural diamonds whose colour has been treated in a laboratory by methods such as irradiation or high-temperature treatment (HPHT) are common in the jewellery industry. While these methods enhance or alter the hue, they also reduce the stone's value compared to those that have developed colour naturally. However, they will in turn have a very positive effect on the diamonds' beauty.

A more ethical option is coloured lab-grown diamonds

Natural fancy diamonds are beautiful, but relatively unaffordable for the average person. If you're attracted to their charm, though, you don't have to head to the auction house right away. If you're interested in sustainability, there's a more suitable alternative. These days, lab-created diamonds are becoming increasingly popular.

They have the same optical and physical properties as natural diamonds, including distinctive colour and exceptional hardness. Furthermore, they're often a more affordable, eco-friendly and ethical option, as their production doesn't pollute the planet or aren't a subject of the traditional diamond industry.

You'll find them in every shade you can imagine – pink, champagne, blue to green – and they'll provide the same wow effect as their natural predecessors. So if you're looking for something really special but don't want to compromise between beauty and price, or burden your conscience, lab-grown diamond jewellery is a great choice for you.

TIP MIALIS: In our studio we most often work with fancy diamonds in blue, pink, champagne, peach or green. Check them out and choose the right ones.

How to recognize a treasure among fancy diamonds?

For regular diamonds, the value is evaluated according to the so-called 4Cs – colour, clarity, cut and carat. The same is true for fancy diamonds, but with a few differences. Although the grading categories are the same, the criteria differ, especially for colour and clarity. So how is the value of fancy coloured diamonds determined?

Colour

It probably comes as no surprise that colour is the most important factor. Unlike classic diamonds, of course, the rule ‘less colour, more value’ does not apply here. But the opposite is true. The bolder and deeper the shade, the more valuable the stone. 

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) uses a nine-grade scale to describe how strong and distinctive a stone's colour is. The lowest grade (faint) follows the Z color in the classic D–Z system. The rarest color is indicated by fancy vibrant.

GIA Scale:

Faint 

Very Light

Light

Fancy Light

Fancy

Fancy Dark

Fancy Intense

Fancy Deep

Fancy Vivid

According to the GIA, three primary elements affect the color of a stone, which is the basis for the above division:

• Hue – determines the base color of the stone. The GIA describes 7 main hues: pink, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple and violet. 

• Tone – determines whether the color is lighter or darker.

• Saturation – measures the intensity of a colour shade.

Clarity

Clarity refers to the amount of internal imperfections (called inclusions) and surface imperfections that may naturally occur in a diamond. However, for colored diamonds, clarity is not as important as color – the key is how the stone looks to the eye, especially from above.

A diamond can be very valuable, even if it has minor inclusions inside, as long as it has a distinctive and uniform color. On the other hand, imperfections that interfere with the structure or strength of the stone already reduce the value. An inconsistent, grainy colour that can be distracting can also be considered a flaw.

Carats 

Carats determine the weight of a diamond – one carat is equivalent to 0.2 grams. For coloured diamonds, however, a higher weight does not automatically mean a higher price. As we mentioned above, colour is simply the first consideration here. That's why a small stone with an intense hue can be more valuable than a larger but faint diamond.

Cut

The cut determines the quality of diamond shape and how well it sparkles. For coloured diamonds, cutters focus primarily on making the colour stand out rather than achieving maximum brilliance. The right cut can enhance the intensity of the color and the overall beauty of the stone.

The World's most famous colored diamonds

Not only are colored fancy diamonds beautiful and rare, some are also famous because of their properties or stories. Here are four of the most iconic:

• Cursed Hope Diamond

This 45.5-carat blue diamond is one of the most famous gems in the world. It is famous not only for its deep blue color, but also for its alleged curse. According to legend, the diamond was originally part of a statue of the gods in India from which it was stolen. And because of this, it was supposed to bring bad luck to any future owner. Today, it's on display at the National Museum of Natural History in Washington.

• Pink Star

The 59.6-carat pink oval diamond holds an auction record, having fetched more than $71 million in 2017. It is considered one of the most perfect pink diamonds ever.

• The Moussaieff Red

The biggest known red diamond in the world, weighing 5.11 carats. Red is the rarest color among diamonds, which is why this stone is extremely valuable. It was discovered in Brazil and later purchased by the famous jewellery company Moussaieff.

• Dresden Green

The 41-carat green diamond is renowned for its exceptional rich colour and its history dating back to the 18th century. It was part of the Saxon royal treasure and now is in the Grünes Gewölbe in Dresden.

Fall in love with colorful fancy diamonds

Each one is perfect in a different way, and that's where their magic lies. If their beauty has captivated you too, know that you can indulge in it too. In our jewellery studio, we lovingly handcraft fancy diamond jewellery for you. Among the most popular are engagement rings, which are an extraordinary alternative to traditional white diamonds. They are the ideal choice for those who want truly original jewellery.

What's more, you can have each piece in any colour of gold – white, yellow or rose – to match your style and the shade of the stone itself. Whether you're looking for a soft pink, a deep blue, a vibrant green or an elegant champagne, you'll find a piece of jewellery that suits you perfectly. 

We care about making sure you choose the right one. That's why we believe in a personal approach. So book an appointment in our Mialis studio to see your chosen pieces in person. Or contact us by email or phone (info@mialis.cz, 775 462 707) - we'll be happy to advise you and answer any questions.

We look forward to seeing you!